Ultimate Guide To The Small Isles – Eigg, Rum, Canna & Muck
The Small Isles on the west coast of Scotland include Eigg, Rum, Canna and Muck. The small archipelago is located south of the Isle of Skye and north of Mull and Ardnamurchan.
“Na h-Eileanan Tarsainn” is the Gaelic name for these islands which translates to ‘cross isles’. This refers to their position between Morar and the Uist Isles.
To get to these islands you can take the MV Shearwater from Arisaig in the summer or from Mallaig by Caledonian MacBrayne all year round.
Visiting the Small Isles is a great trip from Arisaig. The guide will list things to do on the Isle of Eigg, Isle of Rum, Isle of Canna then the Isle of Muck.
Isle of Eigg
The Isle of Eigg is one of the most beautiful Hebridean Islands. About five miles by three miles wide, Eigg lies 10 miles off the Scottish west coast.
The Isle of Eigg is the second largest island. The island has a fascinating history, great wildlife and a vibrant community.
Eigg is an island of surprise. It is much smaller than neighbouring Rum and has a vibrant community.
Nowadays, the island is self-sufficient in energy with wind, solar and hydro in several locations. The population is 100 and the island thrives by itself with a bit of help from tourism.
You are not allowed to take your car over to the Isle of Eigg. So, a bike is the better way to get around.
There are few roads with nearly no cars which makes it great for cycling. Eigg is not the destination for long-distance walks, you can walk for an hour to reach somewhere amazing.
Massacre Cave and Cathedral Cave
Massacre Cave has a deep dark history. Back in the 16th century, an entire population of the Isle of Eigg suffocated inside the cramped crevasse during the duelling of Scottish Clans.
During the duelling, the entire population of the island were sent to hide in the Cave of Frances. The MacLeods covered the cave mouth with wet straw and lit a fire.
Thick black smoke entered the cave and suffocated all 400 people inside. From that day on, the cave was known as Massacre Cave.
The cave’s opening is hard to find and the small entrance is set in greenery. Once inside the cave, it widens out and extends for 79 metres into the dark.
There is a larger cave known as Cathedral Cave which is only accessible at low tide.
The path to the cave is marked with purple paint. There is a shop which sells packs of postcards of the way marked walks on Eigg.
The round-trip walk from the pier to the cave should take two hours.
Cleadale Crofting Museum
At Cleadale Crofting Museum you can experience what life was like for crofting daily. The museum is located inside a family croft house, therefore, it feels like you have been transported back in time.
Grulin Village
In 1853, the whole of the village of Grulin housed 14 families.
They were all forced to leave during highland clearance, except for one family who was held as shepherds. All the other families emigrated to Nova Scotia in Canada.
Nowadays, the village is hidden with sheltered run rigs, irrigation walls and channels. Sheep now wander between the ruins dwelling to graze on the lush grass between the secluded walls.
From the pier at Am Laimhrig, you can follow the posts marked with green to reach Grulin. Some pretty cottages were restored in the 1970s by Keith Schellenberg who owned the island at the time.
Kildonan Bay
The beach is rugged and stony, but there are lots of seals very close by. You can witness them swimming in the water and basking in the sun.
As well as seals, you might have the chance to spot seabirds and the occasional otter. Also, you can get superb views of the sea and Sgurr of Eigg from the beach.
It is easy to get parked at the beach and there is a well-trodden path leading you to the main beach. This is one of the picturesque places where you can sit and enjoy the peaceful ambience or go for a relaxing stroll.
Singing Sands
This is an amazing place, where it is beautiful and quiet. You can spend time here exploring the beach and cliffs.
Also, the sand squeaks under your feet as you walk. There are stunning views out to the Isle of Rum.
Moreover, this is a great location for a picnic, and you can explore the nearby caves and waterfalls.
Dolphins and porpoises patrol these waters. Often you can see whales too.
An Sgurr
Location: An Sgurr
Climb to the top of the incredible and unique An Sgurr for stunning views over the other Small Isles and across Skye and Ardnamurchan.
From the pier at Am Laimhrig, you can follow the red route to the top of Sgurr of Eigg. The peak is impressive and was originally formed by lava flow from the volcano on Rum.
Over a period of time, a mile-long ridge has been formed, with a summit of 393 metres. Align the route you can see the Isle of Rum and the Isle of Muck.
Sgurr an Fharaidh and Finger of God
Sgurr an Fharaidh can be reached from the north side of the island. The loop is four miles long and the route begins and finishes in Cleadale.
You can see the Finger of God from the war memorial cairn where the road forks at Cleadale. When climbing the Sgurr an Fharaidh you will have amazing views of the Bay of Laig and the Isle of Rum beyond.
Galmisdale Cafe and Bar
Located just between the new and old pier this cafe and bar will serve you deliciously made home-cooked food.
All the ingredients are fresh and locally sourced whenever possible. Galmisale Bay offers a place to stop, rest and re-charge, and take in views.
Eigg Adventures
Eigg Adventures provide bike and kayak hire on the wild and beautiful Isle of Eigg.
This is the perfect way to see the Isle of Eigg by land or by sea. The staff are extremely friendly and helpful.
Isle of Rum
Rum is the largest of the Small Isles archipelago at 40.4 square miles, yet approximately 30 people live on the island.
Rum is a fantastic place which easily rivals its famous neighbour, Skye for scenery. However, it is much quieter and has a real off-the-grid atmosphere with eerie solitude in some areas.
The name of the island is either Gaelic which translates to ‘isle of the ridge’ or Old Norse, meaning ‘wide island’. During the 1800s prior to the Highland clearances, it is believed that 425 people lived on the island.
Just like the Isle of Eigg, Rum is a car-free island, therefore it is the perfect place to get away from all the hustle and bustle. There are no paved roads on the island.
However, there is a good track to get across the island. You can easily access the two road ends in an hour or two on a bike.
The Isle of Rum is just located south of its much more popular neighbour- the Isle of Skye.
There is no supermarket on the island and accommodation is limited. Therefore, most visitors tend to do a day trip to the island.
Facilities include a community ranger service, visitor centre, guided walks, illustrated talks, an otter hide, a general store, a craft shop, a seasonal tea room and a campsite.
Rum National Nature Reserve
Rum National Nature Reserve has been described as a diamond in the Inner Hebrides. There is a wide variety of walks to suit all abilities, beautiful beaches, and breath taking scenery including the extinct volcano.
You can find yourself exploring the holiday home of an Edwardian millionaire and spot otters and seals from the shores of Loch Scresort. Also, Kilmory is a deserted village which is worth exploring.
Moreover, since the 1950s, the 900 Red Deer on Rum has been involved in the longest-running study into a wild animal population.
Rum Cuillin
One of the most obvious things to do on the island is to climb the Rum Cuillin. These hills have wonderful Norse-derived names which show their place in the Norse Kingdom.
The hills were formed from a collapsed magma chamber or caldera. The name of the Rum Cuillins are Askival, Hallival, Barkeval, Sgurr nan Gillean and Trollval.
Askival is a Corbett that peaks at 2,660 feet. Here is a mountain trail which crosses five of the six Rum Cuillin Peaks.
Altogether it is believed this hike will take 12 hours. For the longer hikes, you can base yourself at Dibidil Bothy, and hike the various peaks of the Cuillin from there.
Another hiking suggestion includes two peaks – Hallival and Askival.
Kinloch Castle
Kinloch Castle is not really a castle, it is an Edwardian shooting lodge. George Bullough, a wealthy industrialist, commissioned this extravagant Edwardian castle in 1897.
The red sandstone which makes the exterior of the building was quarried from Anna in Dumfries and Galloway. The building was completed in 1900 and it is believed to have cost £15 million in today’s money.
Previously, there were tours of the building which coincided with the ferry timetable to Rum. Kinloch Castle is only a ten-minute walk from the jetty.
Also, at the rear half of the castle, there was a hostel, originally this was the servant’s accommodation.
The building is in need of renovation, with several damp patches beginning to appear on the walls. As of 2021, the site is permanently closed.
Therefore, you can only explore the magnificent Redstone structure from the outside.
Papadil Stack
Papadil is an abandoned settlement on the Isle of Rum located on the southwest coast. There are ruined buildings here, including Papadil Lodge.
The name Papadil is of Norse origin. Also, there is Papadil Loch with a boulder beach.
Next to this, you will find Papadil Stack which is a substantial rock stack on the shore.
Harris Mausoleum
Harris Mausoleum was built in the classical Greek style and stands out on the Scottish Hebridean island.
A few hundred meters to the west you will see the previous mausoleum which was built. The previous mausoleum was made of concrete and had an interior of colourful Italian mosaic.
Kilmory Bay
Kilmory Bay has a large golden sand beach which is entirely secluded. The bay is located on the Isle of Rum’s northern coastline.
The return walk from the ferry to the bay will take 4-5 hours. On route, you will pass through parts of the nature reserve including Kinloch Castle.
Rum Visitor Centre
If you are curious to learn about people who have survived living on the Isle of Rum, pay a visit to the Rum Visitor Centre. It is located by the Old Pier and is open every day during the summer months.
Also, at the visitor centre, you can learn about the island’s geology, explore walking routes and pick up some useful leaflets.
Isle of Canna
Now onto the westernmost island in the Small Isles archipelago. The island is just over 4 miles long and 1 mile wide.
Sanday is a neighbouring island which is connected by a road and sandbanks at low tide. Canna is thought to have been inhabited since 5000BC and now supports a small crofting community.
There are lots to see and do on Canna, whether your interest is in nature, history or culture. Canna has a rich Gaelic heritage, an abundance of wildlife, wild flora and over 1,000 sites of historic interest.
The entire island is cared for by the National Trust of Scotland. Nicknamed ‘The Garden of the Hebrides’ as Canna has the most fertile soil in the Hebridean islands.
At Canna, you can discover the amazingly rich archaeological landscape from prehistoric fortifications to early 19th-century abandoned settlements.
Canna is a bird sanctuary and the coastline is home to over 20,000 breeding seabirds. Also, there are wild creatures, from porpoises and whales to puffins and eagles.
Canna House
Gaelic scholar John Lorne Campbell and his wife Margaret Fay Shaw lived in Canna House.
John Lorne Campbell bought the island in 1938 and gifted it to National Trust for Scotland in 1981. Shaw lived at Canna House until her death in 2004.
The couple researched Gaelic and Celtic songs, stories, poetry and a unique collection of butterflies and moths.
Now, Canna House has an extensive archive and visitors are welcome to look through the photographs, diaries, farm records, correspondence and collection of Gaelic texts and songs.
Step through a beautiful tunnel of escallonia in the walled garden at Canna House. The garden is a bee-friendly sanctuary of lush lawns, flower-filled borders and fruit trees.
Prison Rock and Black Beach
Black Beach is a volcanic beach which looks out to the Isle of Rum. The views are to the sea are gorgeous, where you can see the high clifftops and rugged landscape.
Also, there is a small tidal island which is an arm’s length away from Prison Rock.
At Black Beach, there is a strange fort on top of a sea stack off the island’s east coast. This fort is known as Coroghon Castle.
Sanday Beach
Sanday Beach is also known as Traigh Bhan in Scottish Gaelic. The white sand beach is a perfect place to relax or take a picnic.
During the summer months, the sandy fields behind the beach are resplendent with flowers. If you are lucky you might spot otters playing in the sand.
A’Chill and Celtic Cross
A’Chill was once the main settlement on Canna before the Highland Clearances, now there are few remains left.
There are remains of an early Christian Cross, which dates back from the 7th-9th century.
There are many decorated symbols on the cross. However, some are missing due to the result of a cannonball as practice for the Napoleonic Wars.
Further down the field, you will find an old graveyard. Also, there is a low mound which used for the Punishment Stone.
It is believed that unruly islanders would have their thumb wedged firmly into the hole on the side, and left to ponder their misdeeds for a period befitting the crime.
Saturnino’s Path and Compass Hill
On Compass Hill it is believed the magnetic rocks that play havoc with compass readings – hence the name. To get to Compass Hill, walk through Canna House Garden and exit the gate in the east wall.
Rocket Church
The closest church to the pier is Rocket Church. The church was built in 1911 and is based on an Irish design.
The owners of Canna during this time were catholic and it was built as a place of worship for them.
St Columbas Chapel
St Columbas Chapel was built in 1770 and was the main place of worship until the church on Sanday was built.
For a short period, the church became a shop and post office. In 1965, it was rededicated as a chapel and is still in use today.
Edwards Chapel
Now onto the Isle of Sanday, you will find Edward’s Chapel. Marchioness of Bute funded this chapel in memory of her late father – Lord Howard of Glossop.
The chapel was built in 1890 and was the place of worship for many fishermen who visited Canna at the time. However, now the building is currently not in use.
West End
At the West End, you can see an old barn and shepherd’s bothy. Also, you can walk along the southern cliffs to Garrisdale Point and then return along the north cliffs back to Tarbert.
Along the way, look at the significant historic landmarks of the Nunnery, Dun Chanaidh and Dun Teadh and the old township of Garrisdale.
Puffin Stacks
On the Isle of Sanday, between the months of April to July puffins are present. There are hundreds of puffins during the breeding season.
Also, the cliffs are home to nesting fulmars, kittiwakes, guillemots, razorbills and shags.
Souterrains and ‘King of Norway’s Grave’
The Souterrains are too small underground chambers, which date back to 2,000 years ago. The purpose of Souterrains is still unknown.
From here you can go on to visit the ‘King of Norway’s Grave’ which is a large rectangle enclosure on the peninsula of Rubha Langanais.
Tarbet Bay
Tarbet Bay has impressive columnar basalt at the head of the beach. From the beach, you can view Bloodstone Hill and other mountains on the Isle of Rum.
Isle of Muck
At 1,500 acres, Muck is the tiniest island in the Small Isles archipelago. The Isle of Muck is a peaceful island with beautiful white sandy coves.
The population of Muck is only 38 people. There are no facilities on Muck, no church, no pub and no post office.
The lack of cultural attractions is made up of sheer natural beauty. There are white sandy beaches, blue water and secluded rocky bays.
There is a wide range of wildlife including whales, porpoises, otters, seals, eagles, puffins and more.
Muck has a variety of accommodations with something to suit everyone. There are holiday cottages, a bunkhouse, a guest house and a luxury catered lodge.
Also, campers are welcome here. Also, there is a Mongolian style Yurt which is unique and only costs £15 per person per night.
There are plenty of rock pools around the Isle of Muck. Beware as the new salmon farms have attracted jellyfish in the waters.
Thus, swimming in a rock pool is a lot safer and just as refreshing as taking a dip in the ocean.
Moreover, kayaking is a popular option on Muck. While kayaking on the water, you may be lucky enough to spot a family of puffins or a seal dipping in and out of the water.
Also, you might have the chance to spot ‘Muc Mhara’ which translates from Gaelic as ‘sea-pig’, meaning dolphins and whales.
Horses roam the island semi-freely and are known to hang out on the beaches. It will only take a few hours to walk the island’s perimeter.
Craft Shop and Tea Room
If you have not brought your own food supplies, the only place you get food is the Craft Shop and Tea Room.
They serve homemade soup, sandwiches and freshly baked bread. Make sure to phone before you head to avoid disappointment.
Beinn Airein
The highest point on the island is Beinn Aireinn, which stands tall at 137 metres (449 feet) There are not a lot of trees on the Isle of Muck.
The first tree was planted in 1922 to provide shelter and fuel. Very few trees survive therefore the views on Muck are amazing.
Q&A
Can you stay on the Isle of Eigg?
There is a good selection of self-catering, bed and breakfast, hostel and camping options. Some self-catering options include bothies, cabins and camping pods.
There is a hostel on the island. There are several options for accommodation on Air BnB.
How do you get to the Isle of Eigg?
You are not allowed to take your car onto the Isle of Eigg. To get to Eigg you can catch a CalMac ferry from Mallaig.
Also, there is an option to catch a Sheerwater ferry from Arisaig. At Mallaig, there are two long-stay car parks.
Make sure you get there early to find a space, especially in the summer months as it can fill up quickly. Parking in the East car park is free and parking in the west car park costs £10.
Can you stay on the Isle of Rum?
Yes, you can stay on the Isle of Rum. However, accommodation options are limited and there are no shops on the island.
Also, there are no cars on the island. There is something for every budget.
For a luxury option, you can stay in Ivy Cottage Guest House where meals are provided. For self-catering options, you can consider the Bunkhouse and camping cabins or the Kinloch Village campsite.
Who lives on the Isle of Rum?
The Isle of Rum has a population of 22 people which consists of SNH employees and their families, a schoolteacher and a few researchers.
Most live at Kinloch on the east side of the island. There are no indigenous residents left on the island.
How do you get to the Isle of Rum?
Getting to Rum involves taking a short ferry ride from the neighbouring Isle of Skye. Alternatively, you can catch a CalMac Ferry from Mallaig.
The sailing from Mallaig to Rum takes approximately 1.5 hours. On the way, the ferry stops at the Isle of Muck and the Isle of Eigg.
At Mallaig, there are two long-stay car parks. Make sure you get there early to find a space, especially in the summer months as it can fill up quickly.
Parking in the East car park is free and parking in the west car park costs £10.
Can you stay on the Isle of Canna?
There is a guest house, several self-catering cottages and a bunkhouse on the island. A diesel generator provides electricity to the island.
What is Canna famous for?
Canna is known to have the most fertile land in the Hebridean islands. Also, there is a great abundance of wildlife on the island.
There are sea eagles, golden eagles and puffins. Also, there are peregrine falcons and merlins.
Moreover, there are rare butterfly species. Dolphins, seals and whales can be spotted in the water.
How do you get to the Isle of Muck?
The ferry time to the Isle of Muck from the mainland is approximately two hours. As with the other islands, you can catch a ferry from Mallaig all year round or Arisaig in the summer.
The ferry first stops at the Isle of Eigg before heading further away from the mainland and arriving in Muck.
What is there to do on the Isle of Muck?
You can climb to the highest point of the island – Beinn Aireein. Also, you can relax or enjoy water sports at Gallanach Bay and view the underwater pinnacle known as Elizabeth Rock.
There is a wide variety of wildlife on the island including horses, deer, seals, whales and dolphins. The whole perimeter of the island can be covered in a few hours.
Final Note
The raw isolation and sheer beauty of the Small Isles make it a dream destination in Scotland. A wonderful place to get away and relax.
Also, these islands are ideal for hikers, wildlife enthusiasts, families and for anyone who enjoys being outdoors.
The isles have secluded bays, mountain ranges and impressive views which stretch for miles. Moreover, there is a wonderful range of wildlife including red deer, golden eagles, white horses, seals, dolphins, porpoises and whales.
The people who live on these islands are extremely helpful and friendly, you can speak to the locals for advice. Also, you might get invited to any events that are happening on the island while you are there.
There are lots of islands to explore in Scotland including Orkney, Shetlands, the Isle of Iona, the Isle of Mull, the Isle of Skye and the Isle of Lewis and Harris.