The Ultimate Road Trip Guide To The Shire (The Coig)

The Shire covers the south-west of Scotland and takes you through small towns and villages including Irvine, Troon, Ayr, Girvan, Dalmellington and Kilmarnock. Also, the area has a rich cultural history and was famous for fishing, mining and farming.

The route is 138 miles long. Altogether, without stopping, the route should take five hours. Once you start adding in your favourite must see destinations the time to complete the route will become longer. 

The route begins in the small town of Irvine. It is a circular route which finishes in the same town. You can join the route at any point, this itinerary begins in Irvine.

There is so much to see on the route including large state homes, historical castles, plunging glens, cascading waterfalls and formidable cliff-tops.

Also, The Shire has historical connections to Robert the Bruce and William Wallace. Additionally, visitors can trace the steps of Scotland’s poet Robert Burns, where much of his work is influenced by places and the people of the Shire. 

The Coig

Coig is Scottish Gaelic for ‘five’. The Coig comprises five touring routes around Ayrshire and the Clyde Islands of Arran, Bute and Cumbrae in Scotland.

There is so much to see on these routes and they can be enjoyed by car, bike and foot. 

Also, the attractions are perfect for local day trips, short breaks or long holidays. In addition, the routes showcase the area’s natural beauty, outdoor adventure, history, heritage and nature. 

Read the guide to the Shiel, one of the five routes of the Coig.

Irvine

Irvine is an industrial town in North Ayrshire on the west coast of Scotland. The town is located 26 miles south of Glasgow.

Now, it is a busy town with important historical and maritime connections. Also, you can discover the past of Scottish shipbuilding at Irvine Harbour.

Irvine Accommodation: The Arran Lookout, Irvine Guest House, The Dwelling Place & Niche View

Harbour Arts Centre

The Harbour Arts Centre is a multi-purpose venue which hosts a variety of small events including monthly exhibitions, professional theatre productions and live music.

Moreover, you can view exciting and inspirational art which is influenced by the local area. The venue is an amazing hub located on the Irvine harbour side which overlooks the River Irvine.

Scottish Maritime Museum 

The Scottish Maritime Museum showcases the best national historic boats, maritime art and shipbuilding machinery.

Also, you can learn about the magnificent stories of Scottish inventions and boatbuilding which highlight the significance of Scottish shipbuilding and marine engineering.

At the Scottish Maritime Museum, there are plenty of interactive exhibits where you can learn how to steer a boat, experience what life was like by the sea or view a Viking Fourareen. 

One of the things you can do is climb aboard the oldest floating Clyde-built vessel – MV Kyles.

Once you are finished exploring you can relax at the Puffer’s Café and stumble upon a wide range of heritage and maritime-themed gifts in the Boat Shop. 

Seagate Castle 

There are some cool castles on the Shire tourist route. Originally, the Seagate Castle was a stronghold which sits on the oldest street in Irvine.

The castle was built in the 16th century and resembled a palace-like structure.

Interestingly, the castle has a vast history including Mary Queen of Scots once stayed here. Also, the castle is also part of the Irvine Heritage Trail. 

There are many great castles in ‘The Shire’ along the west coast of Scotland. .

Trinity Church & Hub

The Trinity Church building was one of Irvine’s most distinctive buildings, towering over the River Irvine and featuring a rose stained glass window designed by influential Glaswegian artist Daniel Cottier.

It is a gorgeous building that has been refurbished beautifully after being abandoned in the mid 20th century. 

Dundonald Castle 

Dundonald is an old medieval tower which was built in 1371. The castle sits on a prominent hilltop in Dundonald village, where it has brilliant views across the River Clyde.

In Dundonald Castle, you can explore high-vaulted halls and gloomy dungeons. Also, you can explore the heritage of the castle in the visitor centre.

The exhibitions show the history of the site and some artefacts are displayed which were found during archaeological excavations on the hill.

Troon

Troon is one of the small seaside towns in on the Shiel route which overlooks the Isle of Arran. Also, the town is just a few miles from Prestwick Airport and six miles from Irvine.

At Troon, you can relax on Troon Beach, one of the several sprawling beaches on the South Ayrshire coastline. 

Troon Accommodation: Marine Troon, The Salt Lodge & South Beach Hotel

Troon Yacht Haven

Troon Yacht Haven is an excellent and very busy marina. Although it can be busy, the area offers a piece of tranquillity.

Also, you can sit in Scott’s Restaurant and admire the fancy boats as they come in and out of the marina. 

Lady Isle

Lady Isle is a small uninhabited isle in the Firth of Clyde which lies two miles southwest of Troon.

The small island features a lighthouse and freshwater spring. Interestingly, it was supposedly a site for a chapel which was dedicated to Saint Mary. 

The Lady Isle is owned by the Marquess of Ailsa and has been leased out as a bird sanctuary for many years. There is a bird observatory and wardens post which is run by the Scottish Society for the Protection of Wild Birds. 

Ayr

Ayr is the largest town in the area and enjoys a delightful setting on the Clyde coast. The town is ten miles south of Troon.

You can discover the connections to Robert Burns throughout the town of his birth. 

Ayr Accommodation: Kincraig Apartment, Arran View

Wallace Tower

The Wallace Tower is not to be confused with Stirling’s Wallace Monument. The tower is a charming Gothic structure which was established in 1857 to celebrate William Wallace.

The 60-foot tower was designed by architect Robert Snodgrass. Inside the tower, there are a number of significant portraits including Robert Burns, Robert the Bruce and William Wallace himself.

Additionally, inside there is a spiral staircase which takes you up to a viewing platform and the arms of the Wallace family.

Also, at the bottom of the tower you can look at bronze panels which demonstrate the virtues and misfortunes of William Wallace’s life. 

Auld Kirk of Ayr

The Auld Kirk of Ayr is located just off the main street of Ayr overlooking River Ayr. Interestingly, the Auld Kirk of Ayr has been a centre of worship for over 800 years.

The building is historically and architecturally interesting. Also, there is an ancient gothic graveyard which is very atmospheric.

You can stop and read some of the plaques in the circular seated area and throughout the Auld Kirk. 

Ayr Town Hall

Ayr Town Hall is another historic building which was built in 1827. The most distinctive feature is the steeple which is a main feature on the skyline of Ayr town centre and stands 225 foot tall.

St. John’s Tower

Another ancient historical building on the list is the St. John’s Tower. The tower was built in the 15th century and was an addition to the 13th century church.

The parish church was demolished in the late 1700’s. Now, the tower is accessible to the public and you can view the information boards which display diverse facts about the history of the structure. 

Greenan Castle

Greenan Castle is a ruined castle which is perched dramatically on the cliffs south-west of Ayr, overlooking the Firth of Clyde. It is one of the many castle ruins along The Shire route.

The castle was built in the early 17th century and is perfectly located to anticipate enemy attacks from the sea. Also, the site was owned by the Kennedy clan and has a large history including inter-clan fighting, ambush and murder. 

Rozelle House

Rozelle House is home to Ayrshire Yeomanry Museum, Rozelle Craft House and Rozelle Coffee Shop.

Also, Rozelle hosts a number of art classes and workshops for people of all abilities. Interestingly, Rozelle was named after one of the Hamilton family estates in Jamaica.

Robert Burns Birthplace Museum and Centre

Robert Burns is a famous Scottish poet who is loved all over the world. In Alloway, you can visit his humble cottage where he was born, raised and got his inspiration for his writing. 

In addition, you can follow the Poet’s Path which takes you to historical building landmarks known to Burns.

The Robert Burns Birthplace Museum is very well laid out and has lots of interesting information about Robert Burns. 

Also, you can visit the local shops for some amazing Scottish gifts and unique ranges from local suppliers. Or, you can have a treat in the local bakery.

Dunure

Dunure is a small fishing village which dates back to the early 19th century.

The village can be found on the coast of South Ayrshire, just seven miles south of Ayr. In addition, you can visit many interesting places including the cliff top ruins of Dunure Castle. 

Dunure Accommodation: Island View, Seaview Cottage

Dunure Castle 

Dunure Castle is a lovely little gem in Kennedy Park. The castle was built in the 13th century and has been left abandoned since the mid-18th century. 

Kennedy Park is a perfect place to relax, not far from the harbour. The castle is pretty interesting with access to plenty of information boards. 

On a good day, you can get views all the way out to Ailsa Craig, Isle of Arran and Bute.

Maybole

Maybole is a small residential town nine miles south of Ayr. In addition, the town features some amazing architecture with many fine buildings in view.

Some impressive buildings to look out for are the town hall on the High Street, Maybole Castle, the Parish Church on Cassillis Street and Culzean Castle. 

Maybole Accommodation: Dairy Cottage, The Heathers

Maybole Castle

Maybole Castle is a typical Scottish castle with turrets which was built in the late 16th century.

The castle has many extensions which have beautiful decorative stonework and huge reinforced walls with a thickness of 7 feet. 

Interestingly, Robert Burns’s mother was a resident of the Maybole Castle. Also, the castle was left abandoned for some time but now it is part of the Kennedy estates.

The castle can be viewed externally from the street. It can be difficult to get parked on the street as it is the main busy street on Maybole. 

Baltersan Castle 

Baltersan Castle is a ruined 16th century castle which is only 1.4 miles from Maybole. The castle can only be viewed from Kirkoswald Road.

By the middle of the 18th century the Baltersan Castle became abandoned and remains so to the present day.

Culzean Castle and Country Park

Culzean Castle is a late 18th-century large family mansion which is perched on the cliff tops overlooking the River Clyde. It is one of the two country parks in The Shire route.

Also, the castle and park is a stunning place and offers breath taking views. The castle was designed by Robert Adam and is filled with turrets and treasures which give an insight to the stories and status of the people who have lived there. 

In the Culzean Country Park you can follow the walking paths in the 260 hectare estate. In addition, you can explore over forty buildings, secret follies, woodlands, Swan Pond and Deer Park.

Also you can view fruit filled glasshouses, flamboyant formal gardens and the sandy coastline which is dotted with caves.

There are some good castles in Dumfries and Galloway to visit.

Kirkoswald 

Kirkoswald is an attractive village in South Ayrshire, located four miles south of Maybole.

Also, the village is home to an ancient church, Kirkoswald Old Church, which was built by monks and dates back to 1244. 

Kirkoswald Accommodation: Crabbies Cottage

Souter Johnnie’s Cottage

John Davidson was the souter (shoemaker) in a well known poem, Tam O’Shanter by Robert Burns. Davidson lived with his family in the late 18th century in this thatched cottage.

You can view exhibitions displaying local arts and crafts. Also, you can buy some souvenirs that have been inspired by local artists in the gift shop. 

Turnberry

Turnberry is a village which is famous for one of the best golf courses in the world. The village is only three miles from Maybole.

In addition, Turnberry is famous for Turnberry lighthouse and the ruins of Turnberry Castle. The castle is thought to be the birthplace of Robert the Bruce in 1274. 

Turnberry Accommodation: Trump Turnberry, Elsay May & Turnberry Caravan Holiday Park

Dalquharran Castle 

Dalquharran Castle is a skeleton of a ruin which is located 8 miles away from Culzean Castle. Also, Dalquharran Castle was designed by the same architect who designed Culzean Castle, Robert Adam. 

The castle was built in 1790 and became abandoned in the 1960s when the roof was removed to avoid paying tax.

Similarities can be recognised between Culzean and Dalquharran, which make it easier to imagine what Dalquharran would have been like before it was abandoned. 

To get to the castle you can walk along a dirt road for about a quarter of a mile through some woodland. Soon, this castle will appear in open land.

A smaller, and less well preserved ruin, Old Dalquharran Castle which was built in 1679 is also viewable. You can spend hours walking around here, it is so peaceful. 

Girvan

Girvan is located on the Ayrshire coast, five miles south of Turnberry. There is great inland scenery including lush green hills, with many walkers’ trails in Carrick Forest.

Also, there is lovely coastal scenery including the Ailsa Craig which lies offshore. Interestingly, there are over 20 castles in the area.

Also, the most popular attractions include the McKechnie Institute and the Stumpy Tower – which was originally built as a prison. 

Girvan Accommodation: Girvan Guest House, Girvan Haven

Penkill Castle

Penkill Castle is a 16th-century tower built by relatives of the Earls of Kilmarnock who are a branch of the Boyd family.

In the early 19th century the castle became abandoned. Penkill Castle is now privately owned and can not be visited. 

Ballantrae Windmill, Girvan Beach

Ballantrae Windmill sits on the outskirts of the village of Ballantrae, overlooking Girvan Beach. The windmill was built in 1896 was used until 1709, and is now a category A-Listed Building. 

McKechnie Institute

McKechnie Institute hosts a wide range of exhibits about local and natural history. Also, you can learn about the history of the famous island of Ailsa Craig.

Carleton Castle 

Carleton Castle is a ruined 15th century castle located southwest of Girvan. Legend suggests that one laird from the Cathcart family, Sir John Cathcart funded his lifestyle through a succession of wives.

Whom he murdered before moving onto the next. However, his final wife, May Kennedy of Culzean, pushed him off a cliff.

The tower is located on private farm land where permission will need to be sought to gain access to the ruin.  

Sawney Bean’s Cave (Snibs Cave)

Sawney Beans Cave is a beautiful cave in an isolated location. To get to the cave you will need to scale down treacherous rocks.

The cave is even harder to locate during a high tide as the sea cuts off any access from the beach. Also, the cave is about 150 feet below the car park. 

As the story goes, Alexander ‘Sawney’ Bean was in charge of a 48 incest member clan. In the 15th and 16th century they were responsible for murdering and eating more than 1000 people.

After running away from his ditch-digger father, Bean camped out in a cave and went undiscovered for more than 25 years. 

Barr

Barr is a picturesque village in rural Ayrshire which is situated about eight miles inland from the town of Girvan on the B734.

The village is located in the Stinchar Valley, at the place known as The Pott, where the Water of Gregg and the River Stinchar meet. Also, Barr is off the beaten track and offers a relaxing retreat for those who want to unwind. 

Stinchar Falls

The Shire has many beautiful waterfalls and glens. Stinchar Falls is an impressive waterfall right in the heart of the forest.

Also, the surrounding forest has plenty of trails which are great for walks. There is a large car park near Stinchar Bridge.

To get to the falls you can walk along the red forest road, and through the woodland which goes downhill. Also, there is a viewing platform near the top of the falls.

Dalmellington

Dalmellington is a small town in East Ayrshire, which is twenty miles east of Barr. The small town is scattered over a hillside which is 600 feet above sea level.

The town developed around textiles, the railway, ironworks, coal mining and afforestation. In addition, the settlement is made attractive by the Kirk of Covenant which is situated at the top of the village. 

Dalmellington Accommodation: Find Me Out, Mossdale Cottage

Dalcairney Falls 

There is parking available in Cathcartson where signs for the trail that lead to the waterfall are located.

The stunning picturesque waterfall is located near a minor road at Doon Bridge. Also, Dalcairney Waterfalls are a beautiful find but are not easy to get down to the base of the falls. 

Ness Glen 

Ness Glen is an astonishingly beautiful short walk through a deep wooded glen. It is a great trail to feel and connect with nature.

Also, there is a great chance to get some amazing views. To get to Ness Glen you can park at the foot of Loch Doon just beyond the Osprey Roundhouse Cafe.

From the car park, you can follow a path which leads through a kissing gate to enter the woodland below the Doon Dam. Next, you can follow the path to get to Ness Glen gorge, which was once a renowned showplace in Victorian times. 

Also, the path is carved through granite and there are cliffs up to 30 metres high in places. Overall, the route is two miles long and takes one and a half hours to complete. 

Cumnock 

Cumnock is a Victorian town in East Ayrshire which is fourteen miles from Dalmellington. The town has a strong industrial past.

Also, there are some notable buildings including the magnificent Old church which was built in 1867 and the Mercat Cross, which dates back to 1703.  

Cumnock Accommodation: Dumfries Arms Hotel

The Baird Institute

The Baird Institute is a small four-star museum and art gallery which features a temporary and permanent museum and art displays. There are interesting collections and the staff are very knowledgeable.

Also, there are displays regarding the creator of the Labour party, Cumnock’s history and information of the coal mining industry. Entry is free. 

Dumfries House

Dumfries House is one of Britain’s most beautiful stately homes and best-kept heritage secrets.

However, for entry to Dumfries House, you will have to book a guided tour. It is the perfect way to spend a day and escape city life. 

The mansion was restored by HRH Prince of Wales and reopened in 2008. The Estate garden has many of the original 18th century features.

Also, you can explore the stunning ancient trees, the Adam Bridge, spectacular water fountains, river walks and the wildlife. 

Auchinleck

Auchinleck is a small town which is two miles north of Cumnock in East Ayrshire.

Also, the area is well known as the birthplace of William Murdoch, the inventor of the gas lighting and James Boswell, the biographer of Samuel Johnson.

Barony A Frame

The Barony A Frame represents the mining industry at the former Barony Colliery. The Scottish Coal decided to close the mine and demolished the surrounding buildings.

However, the local people fought to save the frame from demolition. There is a car park and plenty of walking paths to follow.

The information combined with the large frame really gives a sense of the scale of coal mining that once existed in Ayrshire. All that is gone now, however there is still a magnificent frame. 

Peden’s Cove

Penden’s Cove is a famous historic cave which was a hiding place for Alexander Penden, a famous Covenanter.

The cave is found at the top of a red stone cliff overlooking the River Ayr.

Murdoch’s Cave

Murdoch’s Cave is an artificial cave which was built by the inventor William Murdoch.

William Murdoch was famous for inventing gas lighting. Interestingly, the cave was built for him to carry out his experiments. 

Catrine

Catrine is a picturesque village which is three miles north of Auchinleck in East Ayrshire.

The River Ayr flows through the centre of town offering a great fishing season. Long ago in the 19th century, Catrine was popular in cotton mills.

Burns House Museum

Another destination on The Shire which celebrates the life of Robert Burns. Robert Burns lived in Mauchline in his most creative and productive period. In Mosgiel, his farm, he produced some of his best work.

Burns House Museum contains original manuscripts, objects and other publications. 

Burns Bachelors Club

The Bachelors Club is where you can learn about  Robert Burns’ formative years. The building is an authentically restored attraction.

Also, you see the room where Burns learned to dance and where his friends gathered to debate the big issues of the day. 

Kilmarnock

Kilmarnock is located twelve miles north of Catrine in the heart of Ayrshire.

Bank Street is a charming cobbled street in the historic core, with the elegant John Finnie Street boasting one of the best examples of provincial Victorian architecture in Scotland. 

Kilmarnock Accommodation: The Station Apartment, The Park Hotel

The Dick Institute

The Dick Institute is a large museum and gallery space. Also, the museum showcases nationally important exhibitions and permanent displays of the local Scottish history.

Inside the building, there is also a tearoom which serves barista coffee and sweet treats.

Dean Castle and Country Park

Dean Castle is a 14th century castle and is located in one of the country parks in The Shire. The castle was home to the Boyd Family for over 400 years.

The Country Park covers over 200 acres. In addition, you can visit the Rural Life Centre where you can learn about sustainable living and enjoy some wonderful woodland walks.

Also, you can learn about the history of the estate and spot some local wildlife along the way.

Final Note

The Shire is a new route which was established in 2019 and is one of the five parts of The Coig. This post is an ultimate road trip guide to the Shire (The Coig)

There is so much to see and do in the small towns and villages in mainland Ayrshire. From historical caves, museums and castles to stunning beaches and glens, there is so much to do and explore.  

The Shire celebrates the history of Robert Burns and explores the past of the mining industry. Also, travellers can visit many derelict castles and luxurious manor houses.

Finally, The Shire offers lovely coastal views and lush green glens. There is an epic road trip to try in Dumfries and Galloway – the South West Coastal 300.